Mothecombe

West country gardens hold a special allure. in the English horticultural world. Milder climates, sheltered situations, the effect of the gulf stream and an earlier spring all play their part even with the effects of climate change at play. So it was a special treat on this holiday, based on this holiday in the heart of the South Hams, to go visiting two of them, starting with Mothecombe, ten miles east of Plymouth.

We were joined by our dear friend Michael Gee. He and Kim being passionate knowledgeable gardeners they share accumulated plant insight and appreciation. Michael hosted me when performing with Barnstaple based Orchard Theatre in the 1980’s, touring new plays and adaptations of classic novels around the southwest. I’ve mentioned Michael before, an expert on mazzards (Devon cherries) and the county’s apple orchards, for which he received a British Empire Medal from the late Queen.

Mothecombe is situated by the mouth of the Erme, one of many fast flowing rivers that drain Dartmoor to the north. Sheltered by lush deciduous woodlands, in its own microclimate, the salt laden breezes that blow into the cove at the bottom end have little effect on the upper reaches of the little valley which in turn defines its extensive gardens, manor house and estate village. That said a terrible storm in 1990 blew down a lot of older trees which has opened areas up for new planting since.

The handsome Queen Anne mansion, with nearby Flete House and their respective estates, were inherited by the Mildmay family in 1873. Mothecombe House was modernised and extended in the 1920 ‘s, with Edwin Lutyens as architect. Today 5,000 acres of coast and countryside remain of the once even more extensive Flete estate, centered on Mothecombe and the Erme estuary. Between 1982 – 2019 the 15 acre interlinked gardens were the preserve of Anne Mildmay-White. We enjoyed a good conversation with her as she was on duty taking visitor tickets and providing refreshments in the reception area situated in a converted stable block. Turns out Michael and she had once worked together fundraising for the Devon Community Foundation charity, so they enjoyed catching up.  

During Anne’s custodianship the emphasis was on wildlife friendly improvements to garden and grounds. The former cut flower garden was turned into a pollinator plant hotspot when 250 lavender plants, with 12 varieties, were established there, alongside pollen rich annuals and perennials. On the wall was a big notice board showing the common varieties of solitary bees you’re most liable to encounter in UK gardens. This sheltered corner acts as open-air classroom when Bee Conservation Trust volunteers give talks and training sessions for adults and local school children.

We lingered in Lutyens’ handsome refashioned walled garden in front of the house, with its wisteria adorned terraces and wide flower borders. Just outside were impressive specimen trees like magnolia and the wide spreading pink blossom glory of a venerable Judas tree (cercis siliquastrum).

From there we followed our noses through the informal orchard, on through the camellia walk, down into mature woodlands to where the path ended overlooking Mothecombe beach. Watched keen surfers, riding waves rolling in as the cove narrowed up to rock pools and near deserted sweep of sandy shore.

Returning through the woods, we could see through to where the next generation of the family were leaving their mark on the land – a series of shallow ponds feeding off the combe’s stream had been excavated. In a few years they will no doubt look as embedded as the rest of the extended garden landscapes. Came across the original ornamental pond and bog garden, a feature half hidden by exotic blooming evergreens and giant gunnera.  We also encountered small pieces of contemporary metal sculptures of birds and animals skilfully fashioned from cutlery, like this kingfisher.

Higher up, where the valley opens and spreads, a former horse paddock is being regenerated as traditional meadow. Since 2020 it’s been seeded with yellow rattle yearly and subject to seasonal mowing, removal and grazing by sheep. A work in progress as the profusion of these semi-parasitic annual flowers continue to weaken the grasses, allowing meadow grasses and flowers to re-establish.

Being a private estate, Flete is an attractive self-contained location for shooting feature films and its beautiful outdoor locations have been seen in versions of Sense & Sensibility, Rebecca and My Cousin Rachael.

A thatcher was at work replacing reeds on the roof of one of the old estate cottages, back up to the car park in the fields where visitors for beach or gardens start their trek. The former Victorian schoolhouse is now a café and restaurant and nine of the old cottages are leased as holiday lets. We’re sure there’s no shortage of takers.

We came away from this visit impressed by the achievements of respective generations of one family in creating a fascinating multi-layered garden complex here at the centre of their estate. A sustained and sustaining private passion where visitors are made welcome to explore and immerse themselves in.

Mothecombe House, Holbeton, Devon PL8 1JZ

A RHS partner garden and open every Tuesday 10-4 from 1st April – 30 Sept. Admission £6

more at: www.flete.co.uk